ModaRévisé®

Creative Studio

The Importance of Having Creative Strategy Behind Each Design

BlogModaRéviséComment

"You gotta have a creative strategy behind each product you design."  

I overheard this while visiting a client’s office recently and listening in on a design training webinar. While it is something I have learned to do intuitively over the years, something about hearing it presented in a training scenario got me thinking back to one of my first bosses. It was back in 2008 when he said something very similar “Things don’t sell themselves anymore because of so much competition. It’s not enough for a bag to look pretty or simply be affordable. You gotta have a creative strategy behind it.”

I think what struck me in my client’s office is that it has been ten years since I first learned the value of having a creative strategy and it remains among the best advice I've ever received as a handbag designer.

However, it never ceases to amaze me how often designers are misperceived, even by our own non-design interdepartmental colleagues, as only drawing to our heart’s content until someone else reigns us in. The reality of design, however, is much different: Good designers understand that design is a business and designs need to sell at the end of the day. So you better believe that designs need to be supported by a sound strategy that will increase the chance of selling!

Elements+of+the+Creative+Strategy.jpg

 

As such, this post is perhaps targeted to aspiring handbag designers, as well as anyone considering hiring one.

As a working designer in the retail world, it is vital that you create products that not only maintain as much creative integrity as possible, but also meets the demands of the market. This balancing act is what defines a successful designer from an unsuccessful one, no matter if you have talent or not. You may be a super talented designer from Central Saint Martin, but if you can't balance what your heart desires with what's needed by consumers, then it will be ever so challenging to remain employable, let alone relevant to the market that is driven by consumers. 

 Anthropologie 52 Conversational Limited Edition. Conversational Print is still very much the focus. 

Anthropologie 52 Conversational Limited Edition. Conversational Print is still very much the focus. 

To be a good designer, you must learn to design with strategic purpose and execution in mind to reach whatever sales/creative/retail goals are set. For example, I always start my own design process by asking myself a barrage of initial questions: "Who are my customers? Suburban moms or city gals or a blend of both? How do they dress? How much are they willing to spend? How do they live their lives?" If this sounds like research that only marketing and sales folks should do, you’re mistaken. A good designer will take the initiative to figure this out for him/herself.

Designers need to stay relevant and the only way to do so is to know what’s relevant to your target market. Let’s continue with the suburban moms for instance. They often need to literally shoulder a myriad of responsibilities and virtually fit the world into their bags, so I always include a TRUE TOTE in my line ups. Nothing too complicated but with enough pockets for functionality and accessibility. 

From there I’ll ask myself a critical follow-up question: “Am I designing this tote to faithfully translate my brand's DNA to our consumers while adding some trending elements to it?” If the tote is beautiful but looks nothing like your brand's DNA, then you are a one-off designer who can't create products that maintain a consistent brand look. 

 Saks Fifth Avenue: 80's Back with animal prints and bold colors!

Saks Fifth Avenue: 80's Back with animal prints and bold colors!

Next, I ask the question "What season will this be for?" This is extremely important because knowing the season you'll know the following:

A. Are there any special holidays in this season like Mother’s Day or Back-to-School? If yes, most likely your customers will expect you to sell at a discount, which means you must design that tote in such a way that you can afford to sell it at the expected discount without hurting your margin.

B. Additionally, if the season includes a major holiday, be ready to add extra SKUS of gifting items or little bells and whistles that your customers can purchase as extra gift options together with the Tote. (In this case perhaps a simple Pick-Me-Up wristlet, or cosmetic pouches, are easy add-ons?)

C. Obviously materials and color ways can be determined by asking this question as well.

Screen Shot 2018-09-10 at 9.50.54 AM.png

And then there are the questions I ask myself when samples come in: "Will they sit well together?" Color wise, style wise, and even material wise, is there a cohesive theme created by these products sitting together in a store? Any eye sore design I should just drop? Any crazy price point I should just give up? This is mostly a collaborative process when you need to sit down and discuss with Merchandising, Sales & Buying teams to get a more balance POV.

But even after all that preplanning and effort on your part, don't be surprised when you still need to defend your designs and explain your strategy behind each product: "No, I can't use that trendy peacock blue on the tote because green never sells well for our customers and peacock blue has too much green. Instead, I chose a warm lake blue to compensate for the missing peacock blue."

Or…

" I made the wristlet front panel die-cut using the same die-cut mold as the crossbody so that combined styles' quantity will off-set the die cut mold cost."

A successful designer designs to ensure a successful transaction!

download.jpeg

On The Challenge of US-China Tariffs: If You’re Not Solving Problems, Then You’re Not In Business…

BlogModaRéviséComment

The past two weeks ModaRévisé has been re-assigning our handbag clients, new and old, to factories that have out-of-China facilities, such as Cambodia and Vietnam, in order to allay client fears of reduced margins as a consequence of the current US-China tariff dispute. If approved, US tariffs will affect all consumer handbags, small leather goods, and all other accessory items that are made in China. 

180711085011-gfx-trade-war-china-usa-flags-business-780x439.jpg

In case you've been living in the dark ages, this tariff will jack up existing retail prices anywhere from 10% - 23%, depending on the type of materials (synthetic PU/PVC, leather, or fabrications) and the percentage of its usage per bag. And of course, no wise retailer will ask consumers to shoulder this 10% - 23% increase, thus the fear of loss of margin on the retailer's part. 

So ModaRévisé is scrambling to move production outside of China but it's not as simple as it sounds. We need to re-align the supply chain so that factories located outside of China can continue to procure quality materials and meet all delivery deadlines. For those that don't know, China is arguably the only country left that has a massive and well-developed infrastructure of supporting industries for handbags and accessories. From leathers, to Pu/PVC, nylon, canvas, embroidery farm, hardware molding, printing, silicon molding, anything you can imagine on a bag they have the network of supporting industries well established since 20 years ago. 

 Dongguan, China

Dongguan, China

As a result, the majority of these components will still be developed in China, then shipped to our various factories in Vietnam or Cambodia. This can become a logistical and pricing nightmare if we don't manage the transition with extreme care. I get dizzy at the mere thought of a misstep, but this is the current reality of our business environment.

 Leather may be from Indian but the rest still made in China. 

Leather may be from Indian but the rest still made in China. 

Thank goodness for a couple of things, however:

 1) ModaRévisé is supremely fortunate to have a strong teammates to work with to make this happen, especially our manufacturing partners who were prescient enough years ago to anticipate the risk of limiting their operations to China alone; 

2) If you’re not solving problems, then you’re not in business! This is, indeed, one of the greatest lessons I have learned from running my own business. As human as we are, it’s so easy to freak out when something so beyond our control, such as a looming international trade war, suddenly challenges everything we’ve worked hard to build.

But you know what? The sooner we can settle our fears and identify the things that we can control, the sooner we can see that even macroeconomic issues can be simplified, in a sense, and mined for problems that are within our means to address. In ModaRévisé’s case, for example, we were able to focus on working with manufacturing partners with facilities in countries without tariff risk.

There are certainly challenges with even that solution, but solving problems is what business is all about, isn’t it?